The Otavaleņos
Otavalo's beauty lies in its people, the Otavaleņo Indians, and their market,
undoubtedly one of the most important and spectacular in all of Latin America.
Otavalo
is a modern miracle of economic achievement that grow out of colonial
oppression. Forced to become weavers by the Spanish, about half of Ecuador's
Otavaleņo people are today involved in weaving, which has made them the most
prosperous indigenous group in Ecuador, possibly in all of South America.
Otavalo lies between Quito and the
Colombian border.
The modern Otavaleņos are descended
from the Cara tribe, which expanded from Colombia to the Ecuadorian sierra about
1.000 years ago.
The Otavaleņos were forced to learn
Spanish to facilitate their conversion to Christianity, although their
Catholicism today incorporates ancestral beliefs.
The best day of the week to hit this
famous and friendly corner of the Andes is Saturday, the biggest market day for
gringos and locals alike. Arrive Friday afternoon, and then do what most
travelers don't: set your alarm for 5:30am. After being jolted out of bed
Saturday morning, walk groggy-eyed along Avenida Colon to the river and cross
the bridge. Upon reaching the top of Avenida Segundo J Castro you'll find
yourself in a scene reminiscent of the pages of National Geographic: the Otavalo
animal market. By 6am, with the sun rising and the mountains casting improbable
shadows over the town, the market is already alive with squealing pigs and
clucking chickens. Plant yourself on the high grassy bank abutting the market
area and watch scenes of unloading, buying, selling and bargaining unfold. Take
your camera (you can happily and discreetly snap away from your grassy knoll),
but leave your animal rights principles behind, as livestock tender loving care
is not the highest priority on the day's agenda. By the time the sun clears the
volcanoes at 7am, much of the day's business has already been done, and its time
to head back into town to the artesian market.